How to Grow Fruit Bearing Trees
- 1). Pick a suitable orchard site, ideally a location in full sun where air circulates freely, unimpeded by windbreaks. Good soil drainage is very important, as waterlogged soil will stunt or kill trees. The easiest way to test soil drainage is to twice fill a prepared planting hole with water then allow it to drain. It should take no more than 12 to 14 hours for all water to seep into the soil.
- 2). Thoroughly water your fruit trees before planting even if they're dormant. If your trees are bare root, soak them in water for 24 hours and trim any damaged roots you see. Get to work on your soil while your trees hydrate. Each tree's roots will ultimately reach downward for water and nutrients to a depth of 4 to 6 feet and stretch outward at least as far as the tree's leaf canopy, so it's very important to work and improve the soil far beyond (and below) each planting hole. Loamy, rich, well-drained soil will require little improvement, but soils heavy on either clay or sand will need plenty of help, including extra organic matter.
- 3). Dig each hole about 18 to 24 inches deep and just a bit wider than the tree's root spread. Create a slight mound or cone in the center, to help stabilize and support the tree's trunk and roots. Place the tree in the planting hole and make sure the graft union is at least 6 inches above the soil line. Also orient the graft's outward curve toward the afternoon sun, to prevent sun damage. (The inner surface of the graft union is vulnerable to sunburn.) If high winds are expected, tilt the tree very slightly toward the wind's prevailing direction.
- 4). Water thoroughly, adding more soil if it settles too much. Water thoroughly again, even if it's raining out. Roots need to be fully hydrated for successful tree establishment. Mulch with several inches of course compost, sawdust or straw. Despite the urge to boost new growth, don't apply any fertilizer during the first year. Your trees already have everything they need.
- 5). Stake trees loosely, if at all, keeping in mind that trees need to bend and sway to develop strong and flexible roots, trunks and branches. Drive two sturdy support stakes into solid ground on opposite sides of the tree, establishing a straight line into the prevailing wind. Use flexible but durable plastic plant tape or a length of old garden hose (strengthened with baling wire through the center) to attach the tree to each stake, making a figure-8 loop between tree and stake. Attach low, about 6 inches above the point where the trunk begins to flex.
- 6). Attach to a major branch a metal plant tag with all pertinent details for each tree -- the variety name, nursery or other source, rootstock and date planted. Make an orchard sketch or map, noting the location of each tree and the date it was planted. Allow your fruit trees to grow, keeping weeds away from trunks and watering deeply and regularly as needed through summer.
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